Chapter 32: Back Home

What an adventure and a journey that was. We feel so full of incredible memories of beautiful places and people.  While work has already begun for Andrzej, I am looking for new employment. We are getting used to being back on a schedule waking up to alarm clocks and having fewer daylight hours to enjoy outside, but feel more energy and happiness than we felt before. 

 

A brief recap of our homecoming... 

We arrived in Denver after an epic 4 flight trip from Santiago in December 19th. We rejoined Andrzej’s brothers family to celebrate the holidays and we managed to squeeze some ski runs in at Winter Park, Copper and even Eldora. We saw a few good friends as well. 

Skiing at Eldora with our friend Leah

Skiing at Eldora with our friend Leah

Some fresh flurries falling at Copper

Some fresh flurries falling at Copper

Heading into the Enchanted Forest

Heading into the Enchanted Forest

Making perogies is a family production

Making perogies is a family production

The boys got into the train set…

The boys got into the train set…

Back in Maine = surfing in 38˚F

Back in Maine = surfing in 38˚F

Maine is also quite beautiful. Happy to be home and going for walks with this view.

Maine is also quite beautiful. Happy to be home and going for walks with this view.

Looking back towards the surfers

Looking back towards the surfers

Chapter 31: Argentina Part II

After Bariloche we returned to Chile. We chose the 8-hour bus option because of time and cost. It wasn’t so bad, they had coffee, snacks, Spanish movies and poor wifi. It felt safe, and other than the hassle in both directions in both countries for immigration it was a pretty smooth journey without all the hullabaloo of the airport. The immigration process takes about an hour in each country where you have to unload the whole bus with all the luggage to be screened by either dogs or electric screeners and then the immigration officers have to process each person. 

Back in Chile we got a rental car and headed down to Chiloé Island. There we stayed in a dome cabin, which was pretty cool. It had good internet, so Andrzej was able to get some school work done and I began to reach out to prepare for applying for jobs as I had recently found out my work back home was not able to keep me onboard with their current workload.  

On Chiloé , we also explored the island’s natural attractions. We went to a reserve on the western coast of the island which was a mixture of old growth forests and low lying wind swept shrubs. We explored the beach where we found horses grazing the dunes along the shore. We ate a delicious meal in a very cute restaurant full of antiques and character. We saw the stilt houses floating above the water that is a quintessential image of Chiloé. We went on a penguino tour at the Islotes de Puñihuil Natural Monument where boats and guides are waiting for you without a reservation to take groups out for an hour tour. The monument is notable for being the only known shared breeding site of the Humboldt and Megellanic penguins. There were also many other bird species here including pelicans, the red-legged cormorant, and the Fuegian steamer duck. It was really neat to get so close to these birds who didn’t seem to mind us at all. 

 

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Chapter 30: Bariloche, Argentina

And still more beautiful views and mountains to explore. 

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We arrived just in time for the invading “Yellow Broom Flower” bushes to be in full bloom. Talk about fields of gold!

One of our big bike riding days, we rented bikes for two days and covered nearly over 60 miles  

One of our big bike riding days, we rented bikes for two days and covered nearly over 60 miles  

Of course we hiked! Unfortunately, we were not allowed to go to the very top due to the conditions.

Of course we hiked! Unfortunately, we were not allowed to go to the very top due to the conditions.

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This was at Refugio Lopez. 

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Some delicious brews at Patagonia Brewery. Not a bad view!

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a refreshing dip in the glacier lake after kayaking.

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Andrzej meditating 

Chapter 29: Chile Part I

We celebrated Thanksgiving in Santiago in style with a long 16 mile walk/hike, happy hour monster mojitos and a cheap pitcher of beer with pizza.

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The truth is I had to use the bathroom so badly, and we had to buy something to be able to use the bathroom, so Andrzej bought a pitcher of beer (of course?). We were so hungry that we got a pizza too. After that, we were too full to and tired to fi…

The truth is I had to use the bathroom so badly, and we had to buy something to be able to use the bathroom, so Andrzej bought a pitcher of beer (of course?). We were so hungry that we got a pizza too. After that, we were too full to and tired to find a nicer place to celebrate.  We are, however, both very thankful for the opportunity to do this trip and also for the lives we have in the USA.

Santiago is huge!

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We enjoyed the city, but we were really excited to head down to Patagonia. 

 

 PATAGONIA

First stop was Punta Arenas, where we arrived by plane and then took a bus directly from the airport to Puerto Natales, just three hours north. Puerto Natales is a sweet little town that has definitely experienced unplanned growth due to increased tourism from people heading to the Torres del Paine national park. It is considered the “Gateway” to the park. We spent a whole week here so we could get oriented and plan our trip to the park while we were there. We got lucky! We got the “last” campsites (according to fantasticsur.com) during the week we were there. We went to the park by bus at 7 am the two days later, with two nights booked and a relatively loose plan of how much hiking we were going to do...Of course Andrzej figured out how we could do the entire W Trek with the two nights and three days we were in the park. And we did it! Nearly 60 miles of hiking in three days! It’s not the AT or anythinglike that, but it was some serious hiking!

That’s Gray Gkacier begins us at the end of our hike

That’s Gray Gkacier begins us at the end of our hike

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Us at Mirador Británica  

Us at Mirador Británica  

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Our first hike on the day we arrived was to the Grand Torres.

Our first hike on the day we arrived was to the Grand Torres.

Our first campsite at the Torres Central base camp area. Not a bad view, but a tad crowded... 

Our first campsite at the Torres Central base camp area. Not a bad view, but a tad crowded... 

Loved the color palette  

Loved the color palette  

The sound of glaciers falling off cliffs is hard to describe, but it’s memorable and unmistakable  

The sound of glaciers falling off cliffs is hard to describe, but it’s memorable and unmistakable  

We loved every breathtaking moment of our time here and hope that we might have the opportunity to return.  

After Patagonia, Chile we headed to Bariloche, Argentina.  

Chapter 28: Peru

Highlights: Machu Picchu

It’s hard to describe how incredible this place really is. It’s amazing that they let you walk through it and touch the stones and experience this place like the Inca’s did. We hired a guide when we arrived at the entrance and he was able to tell us…

It’s hard to describe how incredible this place really is. It’s amazing that they let you walk through it and touch the stones and experience this place like the Inca’s did. We hired a guide when we arrived at the entrance and he was able to tell us what the different sections were used for from the farm terraces, to ceremonial areas, to the military residences to the areas of where wealthy families lived. They were very agrarian where they actually studied how altitude affected the growth of their produce. They developed over 3000 varieties of potatoes. We also learned that Machu Picchu was left unfinished. There is evidence of an area that had just begun work and was left unfinished. The craftsmanship varied depending on the area of citadel, but they were clearly adept at stonework.

We loved the Alpacas that helped keep the grass nice and even and watched over the city.

We loved the Alpacas that helped keep the grass nice and even and watched over the city.

We hiked to the very top. It was a strenuous hike with thousands of steps, but was worth it, even with the pain that lasted for days afterwards. It is a really a special place, and it was inspiring to imagine how the Inca people engineered and devel…

We hiked to the very top. It was a strenuous hike with thousands of steps, but was worth it, even with the pain that lasted for days afterwards. It is a really a special place, and it was inspiring to imagine how the Inca people engineered and developed these mountains.

These are some of the original steps that the Inca’s built up to Machu Picchu Mountain.

These are some of the original steps that the Inca’s built up to Machu Picchu Mountain.

So many steps. Some staircases were literally on the edge of a cliff. We learned many people died in the process of making the Machu Picchu citadel.

So many steps. Some staircases were literally on the edge of a cliff. We learned many people died in the process of making the Machu Picchu citadel.

Andrzej has really embraced meditation, and this was the perfect spot. It wasn’t very crowded at the top of Machupicchu Mountain, and we stayed until the park official said it was time to go. The mountain peak was in the clouds nearly the whole time…

Andrzej has really embraced meditation, and this was the perfect spot. It wasn’t very crowded at the top of Machupicchu Mountain, and we stayed until the park official said it was time to go. The mountain peak was in the clouds nearly the whole time we were there.

On our way down there were better views without the clouds blocking our view of the citadel. You can see how the Inca’s must have lopped off the top of this mountain peak for their city.

On our way down there were better views without the clouds blocking our view of the citadel. You can see how the Inca’s must have lopped off the top of this mountain peak for their city.

After a long flight from Poland to Peru we arrived early in the morning into Lima, Peru. Lima was cool, but we didn’t take very many photos there. We did get out for some surfing and explored the areas of Miraflores and Barranca, which had a great bohemian vibe and the food was second best to Vietnam in our book.

Highlights: Food

Chapter 27: Poland Part II

After Zakopane we headed northeast to visit the town, Rzeszow, where Andrzej was born and lived until he was two when his family moved to CT.

This is nearly everyone in Andrzej’s family that we got to visit with. We visited during the holiday, All Saint’s Day, which is an important holiday in Poland’s Catholic community. It is the day after Halloween (fka Hollow’s Eve). It is when Catholics go and visit cemeteries and put candles and flowers on the tombstones of their loved ones who have passed. The cemeteries were absolutely filled with people and lights and flowers. At night it was beautiful seeing all the candlelight stretching over huge amounts of space.

This part of the trip was really great. It was nice to be able to visit with family so far from home and have the time to really catch up and enjoy each other’s company. We ate delicious home cooked meals, talked about all sorts of topics from how things have changed in Poland, politics, Poland’s history, the economy, family events, drank homemade nalewki (nal*lef*key) (aka alcholic tinctures) and shared recipes. We looked through old pictures and recent pictures. We got to know Andrzej’s cousin’s kids who are already starting to go to college.

The most tiring aspect of this part of our travels was my trying to learn Polish and follow the conversations, and Andrzej trying to also keep up with the Polish and then try to translate it for me. Everyone was incredibly nice and helpful with this, however. Polish hospitality, is nothing but generous and kind and is definitely something we all should strive for.

The Food!

Lots and lots of perogies! Hopefully we do not turn into one! 

A Walking Tour of Rzeszow

Museums:

Auschwitz concentration camp in Oświęcim, Poland.

Not much to say about this other than how deeply sad it makes you feel. It’s good that they preserved it, we shall never forget the lives that were lost, and we will never let this happen again!

The Ulma Family Museum in Markowa (Mark*Ova), Poland.

A museum dedicated to a Polish family of six who hid Jews during Nazi occupation. They were all executed for hiding a Jewish family.

The Warsaw Rising Museum

Since it was raining, we made it a museum day. We went to the Warsaw Rising Museum before POLIN (sorry we didn’t take any photos here), which was about the 45 day uprising of Warsaw in 1944 when over 150,000 residents were killed. This was a story we hadn’t heard before, so we spent quite a long time here (3.5 hours!). They even had recreated the sewer pipes that the people of Warsaw had used during the uprising that we could walk (in Andrzej’s case, crouch) through. We had to wait an hour in the rain just to get inside it was so busy. Both the Warsaw Rising and the POLIN Museums were deeply moving as they reflected on the tragedy of much of Poland’s history. They were absolutely filled with information, which made it hard to move through them quickly and efficiently. We both reflected that it would have been helpful to use audio-guides. Our brains were practically fried from all the reading and material we tried to absorb.

Poland has done a remarkable job at creating architectural spaces that display significant periods of its history filled with artifacts and interactive displays to engage everyone. All the museums we visited were packed, and we visited them on different days of the week, with different weather. As you may also notice, many of the museums are fairly new. This reflects the fact that Poland is making up for lost time.

The POLIN Museum in Warsaw, Poland.

POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews is a museum on the site of the former Warsaw Ghetto. The Hebrew word Polin in the museum's English name means either "Poland" or "rest here" and relates to a legend about the arrival of the first Jews to Poland. Wikipedia. We didn’t take any interior photos here, but there were many artifacts related to this history. One that was particularly interesting was the recreation of a Jewish Synagogue that was very colorful with painted decorations on every wall and post and ceiling.

Walking Tour of Warsaw

The Solidarity Museum in Gdansk

Located in Gdansk. This museum was particularly significant to us because it was about the history of the Solidarity movement and when Martial law was imposed. It was a captivating display of what life was life during that tumultuous and confusing time. Andrzej’s siblings and older cousins were old enough to remember when the TV cartoons switched to a national broadcast displaying General Jaruzelski announcing Martial Law.

We also learned after being thoroughly confused and exhausted from the Warsaw Uprising Museum and the POLIN Museums that having the headsets tour guide really is worth it. Not only does the headset tour guide give you more information about what you are looking at, but it also guides you through the exhibits with more direction.

A Walking Tour of Toruń, Gdansk, Sopot and Gdynia in northern Poland

You will notice a medieval and gothic theme throughout the architecture here in northern Poland.

Malbork Castle

It felt like going back in time. It was the home of the Teutonic Knights and their Grand Master. This castle dates back to the 13th century.

While this castle has undergone many renovations in both the 19th and 20th centuries and was just recently completed in 2016, it has withstood so much destructive history in Poland. Many of the restoration techniques used on this castle have been studied and used around the world. Andrzej and I were remembering our visit to Egypt last year where we had discovered the restoration team at Queen Hatshepsut’s temple were Polish. We don’t know if there was a direct correlation between those restoring this castle and her temple, but it appears that the Polish are well versed in historical preservation and restoration work. There is, however, always controversy in regard to distinguishing the new from the old. That being said, we both really enjoyed the fact that they rebuilt the damaged areas so that we could experience the scale and details that people would have experienced centuries ago. It’s hard to imagine how it was constructing this fortress with such primitive (to us) technology.

Chapter 26: Poland Part I

The Wawel (Va•Vel) Castle

A view from inside the grounds.

Always a sucker for models...

A sculpture of the famous dragon that lived under the Wawel castle. We heard several tales about this dragon, but they were all consistent that the person who tricked and ultimately killed the dragon did it by feeding it a sheep filled with sulfur which caused the dragon to drink and drink from the nearby river until it exploded. Some stories differ in that the man, names Krak went to kill the dragon in order to marry the king’s daughter, another story went that one of the king’s two sons did it and killed his brother.

The dragons lair. There were pretty neat caves under the castle.

More from Krakow

Zakopane

Chapter 25: Ludwigshafen, Mannheim and Heidelburg, Germany

Biked to Heidelburg with this crew. It is a beautiful old city with a castle and great restaurants. Word is out, though, so there are many tourists!

We had a great visit with our friends, Fairouz and Sherif, who recently moved from Berlin to Ludweigshaven/Mannheim for work. It’s definitely a different vibe, but we found plenty of things to do. It was nice to have time to visit these friends for more than a few days, which is usually all we have since we live so far apart.

A view towards Ludweigshaven from the Park near Fairouz and Sherif’s temporary apartment. It is very industrial here. Mannheim is a bit more exciting and smells like chocolate due to the chocolate factory nearby.

Just 10K away from Heidelburg, we decided we needed a photo (please don’t mind my outfit!)

All things Porsche!

German cuisine!

We cooked in during most of our visit, but here are some quintessential German dining pictures. It’s a mixture including lots of meat, wine, beer, Haribo, and Korean…

Exploring Mannheim Park by bike. Germany is very pretty in the Fall and reminded us of home.

The beginning of our long 20 mile journey to Heidelburg from Ludweishaven.

The Heidelburg Castle.

Chapter 24: Paris

All things Eiffel…

Saturday market in Joinville-le-Pont…Yum!

We were lucky enough to have family to stay with during our 4-day trip to Paris. These are Andrzej’s cousin’s children. We had a lot of fun spending time with his family and learning about French culture while sitting at their dining table enjoying home cooked meals. The table was tri-lingual. The children spoke both Polish and French fluently, the eldest spoke quite a bit of English as well, and Andrzej could speak both Polish and English, his cousin Kasia and her husband could mostly speak all three, and I was the only mono-liguistic person at the table waiting for a translation. It was an entertaining experience, one filled with aperitif wine, regular wine, delicious main courses, and ending in a fromage (cheese) course.

All things cars: A glance at the Paris Car Show

The Avenue des Champs-Élysées. It connects Arc de Triomphe with the Place de la Concorde. It is a famous street, which is considered by some to be one of the most beautiful streets in the world. It is also where many Parisians celebrated (unfortunately, the celebrations turned violent) when France won the World Cup this year. https://www.theguardian.com/football/gallery/2018/jul/16/the-french-national-football-teams-victory-parade-in-pictures

We couldn’t figure out why they had the South Korea Flag on its edges while we were there.

And yes, we did get to see some artwork after the car show…

All things art:

The Louvre and The Musée d'Orsay

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Chapter 23: Portugal

We are back in action and on the move.

National Palace of Pena in Sintra, Portugal. It kinda reminded us of a Disneyworld theme park. While the colors threw me off a little bit, the palace was actually quite beautiful inside and out.

Not a bad view.

The palace kitchen. I loved all the copper, but I couldn’t imagine trying to lift those giant pots filled with food.

The Palace dining room.

The palace gardens. It was a beautiul maze of gardens, forests, pathways and secret walks. It reminded us of the secret garden story.

The old city of Sintra, Portugal.

The Moorish Castle in Sintra. It felt like a step back in time to the knights of the Round Table or something like that.

Praia de Ursa. According to Wikipedia “it is the most western beach in Europe.” It was considered by the Michelin Guide to be one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. We agree!

It was a bit of a hike down, but totally worth it.

It was a bit of a hike down, but totally worth it.

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In Porto, the Ponte du Luis bridge, was completed in 1888. As I learned from Wikipedia, the project engineer of record, Théophile Seyrig, who’s firm won the Grand Prix Paris competition in 1879 to design this double decked bridge, actually collaborated with Gustave Eiffel in a partnership even though Eiffel had also competed separately and lost.

Porcelain tiles, azulejos, are a popular exterior finish for buildings dating back to the 16th century and continuing to today. They are representative of the influence the Moors had when they invaded what is now Portugal in the mid-13th century. The tiles became more ornate during the 14th-16th centuries during the “Age of Discovery” when the Portuguese were exploring the seas creating colonies in South America, Africa, and Asia including India.

Did we mention Port is a big thing here…yum!

I had some company while watching Andrzej surf. Portugal is a very dog loving country.

Andrzej relaxed while riding a beautiful green wave. He makes it look so easy. I considered going out only to realize these waves are a lot bigger than they look.

Andrzej surfing another spot called “Crazy Left” in Ericiera. Just to the right of this picture is a poitn break called Coxos, which is considered to be one of the best right hander waves in the whole world. It was tough to get in there amongst the locals, so Anj went across the bay to a much less guarded break that suited his goofy riding style better. We have discovered, unfortunately, that Portugal has a strong local surf culture that is less than welcoming to outsiders. Although, I think I would also covet such an amazing place and not want it to get too crowded either.

One of the blue lobsters, I think, we ate for dinner. We prefer Maine lobster more!

Chapter 22: Back in the USA

We were happy to find that our car was still in our storage unit 3 miles north of the Mexican border, and started on the first try after sitting for 3 months! After a quick stop to visit Brad in shell beach, we made our way east.

Road tripping…again

Now on our way to Colorado, we stopped at the Hoover Dam to witness the engineering feat it is, and to feel the 110 degree desert heat.

After that was a quick stop at the 4 corners.

There were many factors that led to our USA return from halfway around the globe; Our Grand Canyon experience, getting our car back east from CA, Anj’s participation in the prestigious C.C.C.C. golf tournament, Jon and Jess’s wedding, and as you can see in the above photo, meeting our new nephew, Adam! He belongs to Adam and Tanya. While in CO we also visited our family in Ridgway.

Rafting down the Grand Canyon

An experience you don’t want to miss and well worth traveling halfway around the world to get to. The trip was organized by Robin (Sybil’s mom) and Potter to celebrate Potter’s 70th birthday. It was a family trip, which we hadn’t done in a loooong time.

4am wake up call to start hiking down to the Colorado River where our rafts are waiting for us. We’re missing Sarah in this picture, who stayed home with the kiddos and made sure Edward had a successful first day of kindergarten.

A very early sunrise hike down the bright angel trail into the canyon the first day. The goal was to beat the sun.

Well, we did’t beat the sun. It was hot and the hike was long, slow, and arduous. But we made it, and it it was worth it. That was about the only “work” we had to do for the whole week.

We thought we’d have to paddle, but our job was to relax, stay hydrated, not get too sun burnt, and hold on through the rapids…yeah, that was pretty much it!

Each day was filled with very wet rapid rides. The water was about 50 degrees and the air was 100 degrees+. It was a cold silty awesome slap in the face when those waves splashed up at you.

About half the day was spent floating quietly down the river without distraction, something we realize we rarely get to do. We spend so much time in front of screens that it actually takes a little while to remember how to relax and do absolutely nothing.

A short hike to a small water fall. We all jumped into the clear cold water to refresh.

Another day, another refreshing, cleansing waterfall.

One of our campsites along the river.

We hiked up here through a slot canyon where the walls were painted with old Havasupai Indian hand prints. One of our favorite hikes and rest stops.

Some of the Havasupai Indian handprints on the slot canyon walls. We were told they may have done this to show their bravery. It would not have been easy to get to that spot. Between those prints and where we’re standing is a deep 50+ foot narrow canyon.

The waterfall below the hike above.

Another beautiful clear swimming hole we hiked to at Havasu falls.

At the end of the river trip we were helicoptered out of the Grand Canyon. Sybil sat up front.

Andrzej had the whole back seat to himself.

Our week-long rafting expedition with Hatch far exceeded our expectations. Our guides were experienced and knowledgeable of the river and reacted intuitively and skillfully during the largest rapids we have ever seen. Each day was breathtaking view after breathtaking view of the rugged canyon. We went on short hikes up slot canyons to small oasis with spring fed fresh clear water, a sharp contrast to the red silt filled Colorado river that we had become used to. The silt got everywhere, including in your teeth, but it mattered little next to the thrill of being there. The brilliant night sky, unspoiled by ambient light, was filled with shooting stars each night. Some nights we slept directly under the stars amongst the snakes and scorpions, other nights we enjoyed the sealed comforts our tents provided.

We learned the history of the Grand Canyon, from the Native American tribes surrounding the canyon, to its early discovery by the Spanish looking for gold in 1540 and its irresistible draw of exploration. In 1869 John Wesley Powell and his crew famously did so over a 3 month long expedition. When you are deep down inside the canyon you can only wonder what it must have been like to stumble upon this massive feat of nature and how this amazing place was created. We learned that the Colorado river has been “cutting” this canyon down about a paper thickness per year for what researchers believe has been over 5-6 million years.  

Final views of the canyon from our helicopter ride back to Bright Angel Lodge, where we had left our car for the week. We got the private helicopter, presumably because few people drive to the Grand Canyon for their rafting trip and need to be transported back to their car like us.

Finally heading back home.

Originally, we planned on taking our time and driving up the east coast to visit friends and catch some surf along the way in the Atlantic. Unfortunately, hurricane Florence decided to thwart our plans and wreak havoc in the Carolinas. Instead, we booked it back home to visit our house, friends, check in with our “jobs”, and regroup before taking off again.

Hurricane Florence thwarting our plans to drive up the east coast.

Andrzej catching the last bit of Florence on the NH coast.

Made it to Jon and Jess’s wedding!

Made it to Jon and Jess’s wedding!

In style!

In style!

Chapter 19: Vietnam

THE FOOD is probably our favorite part! So many delicious options. The people are also so kind and helpful to us and we have really enjoyed our tour of this country.

A view from the rooftop of our first hotel in Ho Chi Minh City (formerly known as Saigon). The rooftops are clearly a "bonus" space that many people utilize as an additional room. The city is very dense and home to a lot of different cultures and ethnicities.

This temple is known as Hung King's Temple. It was designed by a French architect, Auguste Delaval, and was originally built in 1927 with the name Temple de Souvenir Annamite (Annamite Temple of Remembrance) to honor Vietnam soldiers who fought in World War 1.

This was the start of our Architectural and Cultural walking tour of Ho Chi Minh.

The Ho Chi Minh City Post Office. Also designed by the same French architect, August’s Delaval.

The Ho Chi Minh Opera House. We went there to see the Teh Dar show depicting the ancient mountain people of Vietnam through a music and dance performance. Unfortunately, pictures were not allowed during the show, but believe us when we say that the show was incredible. It reminded me of a Cirque du Soleil / musical performance.

At the end of the Teh Dar show the performers came out to the lobby to play more music and let us take pictures of them.

Ho Chi Minh City Hall. The concrete “beach” in front of us is covering a canal which used to be exposed. This area is quite vibrant in the evening with lots of friends and couples hawker food carts and people selling their wares or milling about. We learned during our tour that the public is not allowed in the city hall. Only special and invited guests may enter at this time, however, there have been discussions that this may change soon. Ho Chi Minh is considered much more liberal and generally less strict than the northern territories of Vietnam. Our guide informed us that this is not something people say too much out loud, but there are a lot of people who migrate from the north to the south. It was a reminder that Vietnam is still a communist country.

A “vertical city street”. Those are all shops and restaurants as you look up. This building is on the same street as that “concrete mall” space in front of the city hall building. This reminds me of the 5th Element movie where people drive around in hover crafts.

Out front of a seafood restaurant in Nha Trang, where we had a one night layover during our 17 hour train ride from Ho Chi Minh to Da Nang.

One of the many night markets we strolled through in Vietnam. This one was in Nha Trang.

A beautiful Pagota at Marble Mountain in Da Nang.

Sybil rubbing Buddha’s belly for good luck.

An evening boat ride in Hoi An during the lights celebration for the lunar start of the month.

Rolled ice cream complete with a dinosaur gummy on top.

Yes, that’s a frog!

We had the best grilled octopus at this woman’s cart.

Hoi An is well known for its ancient yellow buildings and lantern lit streets.

We went to another performance while we were in Hoi An. This performance was called the AO Show and was about the river people of Vietnam and how their culture has changed within the modern world, and yet, where you can still see traces of the past. Both the Teh Dar Show and AO Show had beautifully simple props and costumes, and yet they did so much with so little.

Hoi An at night.

We discovered Vietnamese custom clothing stores. They take about 50 measurements of you, you design the clothes you want with them and then pick out your fabric, and within 24 hours you get clothing that fits you perfectly!

Country Pancakes

Shrimp in baskets

Bun Cha

A fried banana with condensed milk sauce, coconut shavings and peanuts sprinkled on top.

Fresh spring rolls, sweet and sour tofu with vegetables, and beef with noodles. I think this total meal came to about $5-$6

Pork buns and fresh spring rolls. I couldn’t get enough of those fresh spring rolls!

Green tea pasty puff dessert

Chapter 17: New Zealand Part 2

We took many pictures during our time in New Zealand, but we don't want to bore you with one beautiful scene after another. For those of you reading our blog, we highly recommend traveling to New Zealand for a few weeks if you can. It is totally worth it!

We camped, we hiked, we surfed, we met lots of friendly people and saw familiar faces too. We tried to go to every corner, but we did not make it, and so we will have to go back. 

Some cave exploring

We hiked to both Fox Glacier and Franz Josef Glaciers. This is Franz Josef Glacier in the background.

We fed alpacas and got some really amazing warm wool/alpaca/possum socks, which were essential for winter camping, which we did on several nights.

Anj about to drop down 100 feet into "The Abyss"

The famous New Zealand Glowworms

The famous New Zealand Glowworms

Our enthusiasm during our training before entering the caves. Check out our super cool outfits.

We found a beautiful hike up in the Coromandel Peninsula. We just went about half way, but it is meant to be done as an overnight longer trek. Absolutely stunning views!

We stayed with a friend at her family's dairy farm and tried to help out. Mostly, we were unhelpful, but we looked like we knew what we were doing. The days old calves were really cute. There were nearly 200 cows on their farm and daily 4-6 calves were being born. Apparently, we arrived just in time for calving season. It was pretty cool to experience a dairy farm at this time. Our friend is from the US and married a Kiwi dairy farmer. It has been his family's business for generations. The whole family was working on the farm while we were there. They are in the middle of building a new milking barn that could milk 20 cows at once, but due to it still being in construction they were having to milk the cows only 2 at a time all day long. On top of that our friend and her husband have a 4 month old baby! Talk about a lot going on. 

Of course our trip to New Zealand wouldn't be complete without a stop at Hobbiton.

Chapter 15: Fiji

One of the first sunrises touching the world that day. Fiji is 22 hours ahead of Boston!

One of the first sunrises touching the world that day. Fiji is 22 hours ahead of Boston!

Followed by the first sunsets...

Followed by the first sunsets...

The famous Cloudbreak Tower. A dream for surfers. 

The famous Cloudbreak Tower. A dream for surfers. 

Andrzej surfing Cloudbreak!

Andrzej surfing Cloudbreak!

Andrzej surfing Swimming Pools

Andrzej surfing Swimming Pools

Andrzej surfing Namotu Left!

Andrzej surfing Namotu Left!

Our accommodations at Mami Village with Auntie Vassi. It was a an interesting experience.The people of Mami Village were super nice and welcoming to us. As we walked around the village everyone would say "Bula" (hello) to us. However, we realiz…

Our accommodations at Mami Village with Auntie Vassi. It was a an interesting experience.

The people of Mami Village were super nice and welcoming to us. As we walked around the village everyone would say "Bula" (hello) to us. However, we realized after our two nights there that we prefer camping. They live what we would consider a "hard" existence. They had running water for about 45-60 minutes every few days. They had limited electricity and washed their clothes in the river or in buckets outside their home. Some houses, such as ours, had refrigerators, but they hardly used them. They bought what they needed each day and didn't seem to store anything. Families lived together In 1-2 room houses built either from corrugated metal sheets or concrete. They had toilets, but you needed to fill a bucket of water to use to help flush the toilet since there wasn't running water most of the time. It was one of those experiences where we were faced with uncomfortable situations and learned how to help each other through them. Antibacterial hand sanitizer, wet wipes, and bug spray were also crucial. 

Our first surf guide Atu aka "Tuna"

Our first surf guide Atu aka "Tuna"

Our second surf guide, Lesi, and the crew surfing at Frigates. Like Cloudbreak, we needed a boat to take us out to this surf spot which was almost an hour from the main island, Viti Levu, which we were staying on. There are over 300 islands tha…

Our second surf guide, Lesi, and the crew surfing at Frigates. Like Cloudbreak, we needed a boat to take us out to this surf spot which was almost an hour from the main island, Viti Levu, which we were staying on. There are over 300 islands that belong to Fiji. There were some good surfers in this crew, and Andrzej was one of the best! 

Andrzej surfing Frigates!

Andrzej surfing Frigates!

Last sunset in Fiji at the Beach House. Stunning!

Last sunset in Fiji at the Beach House. Stunning!

Chapter 14: Hawaii

Two weeks in the same place...ahhh Bliss! We both loved Hawaii. 

One of many breathtaking sunsets.

One of many breathtaking sunsets.

Some pretty serious Bocce was played. (Notice crutches are moving into the background)

Some pretty serious Bocce was played. (Notice crutches are moving into the background)

Last night with the Family before they left for Australia. It was a fun visit spending time with Bradley clan and seeing all these boys getting so big and grown up. 

Last night with the Family before they left for Australia. It was a fun visit spending time with Bradley clan and seeing all these boys getting so big and grown up. 

Aleks greeted us with Leis. The flowers were still opening up on our 8th night. This is Kailua beach, which is just a short walk from their house. 

Aleks greeted us with Leis. The flowers were still opening up on our 8th night. This is Kailua beach, which is just a short walk from their house. 

Of course there was lots of surfing. Here is Andrzej surfing Diamond Head. 

Of course there was lots of surfing. Here is Andrzej surfing Diamond Head. 

The Hawaiian Pot - a different dining experience. You choose your broth and cook a stew with all the ingredients you choose right in front of you at your table. Of course we ate Poke and Acai bowls as well. We also cooked in as much as week could to…

The Hawaiian Pot - a different dining experience. You choose your broth and cook a stew with all the ingredients you choose right in front of you at your table. Of course we ate Poke and Acai bowls as well. We also cooked in as much as week could to save $$. 

Sybil getting her legs back in motion after taking her first steps only a few days before. No Crutches!

Sybil getting her legs back in motion after taking her first steps only a few days before. No Crutches!

A shrimp plate on the north shore. 

A shrimp plate on the north shore. 

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Pali Pass hike. Andrzej trying to climb one of the young Banyon Tree. 

Pali Pass hike. Andrzej trying to climb one of the young Banyon Tree. 

Although the Pali Pass hike in Honolulu was very muddy, when you looked up it was really pretty to walk in the bamboo forest. 

Although the Pali Pass hike in Honolulu was very muddy, when you looked up it was really pretty to walk in the bamboo forest. 

The waterfall at the end of Pali hike became the first of many waterfalls we would see on this trip. 

The waterfall at the end of Pali hike became the first of many waterfalls we would see on this trip. 

Cliffs surf spot. A glimpse at Hawaii's colors...

Cliffs surf spot. A glimpse at Hawaii's colors...

Chapter 13: Highway 101 / Route 1

What an incredible drive it was. We have concluded our road trip down the west coast. We are now safely in Hawaii, which is saying something for us. We have also booked our tickets for Fiji and New Zealand in June. We feel good and my leg is healing properly. I have even started to walk around the house without crutches. 

A few pictures from the last two weeks on the road since Vancouver. There are actually more than a few since there is a lot to share. 

The Astoria Bridge that crosses from Oregon to Washington at the end of the Columbia River. It's a pretty insane bridge as it is the longest continuous truss bridge in North America according to Wikipedia. 

The Astoria Bridge that crosses from Oregon to Washington at the end of the Columbia River. It's a pretty insane bridge as it is the longest continuous truss bridge in North America according to Wikipedia. 

One of the Monuments south of Seaside. I believe this was in the Goonie's film. 

One of the Monuments south of Seaside. I believe this was in the Goonie's film. 

That big speckled bird is a baby Bald Eagle claiming the crab by his/her feet and shooing off all the other birds there. 

That big speckled bird is a baby Bald Eagle claiming the crab by his/her feet and shooing off all the other birds there. 

Andrzej waiting for the right wave for his short board at Seaside, OR. 

Andrzej waiting for the right wave for his short board at Seaside, OR. 

Driving through Tillamook, OR where they make the Tillamook cheese. They also have a delicious creamery! (See below)

Driving through Tillamook, OR where they make the Tillamook cheese. They also have a delicious creamery! (See below)

Since I can't do much else, I might as well enjoy a good ice cream cone, right! We did the creamery tour, but since their new factory is under construction they have a temporary factory tour, which was made up of plastic cows and plastic displays. S…

Since I can't do much else, I might as well enjoy a good ice cream cone, right! We did the creamery tour, but since their new factory is under construction they have a temporary factory tour, which was made up of plastic cows and plastic displays. Supposedly in the future they will be using real cows and you will see workers and machines actually milking the cows and making the cheese. Luckily, they still had a full buffet of cheese samples at the end of the 5 minute walking tour.

A hiking expedition on my newly decked out crutches to a special surf spot called Short Sands. My arm pits will tell you it was brutal! Anj told me it would make me stronger, and perhaps it did. 

A hiking expedition on my newly decked out crutches to a special surf spot called Short Sands. My arm pits will tell you it was brutal! Anj told me it would make me stronger, and perhaps it did. 

Anj getting in to surf at Short Sands after our "long" hike in.

Anj getting in to surf at Short Sands after our "long" hike in.

One of the amazing views while driving down Highway 1

One of the amazing views while driving down Highway 1

Andrzej getting ready to go in at Port Orford, OR. 

Andrzej getting ready to go in at Port Orford, OR. 

CALIFORNIA

Elk Prairie Campground in the Elk Prairie Redwood State Park, CA. These are REAL ELK, they are not statues. They were just checking out the campground the next morning as we were leaving. This campground was filled with wildlife. We nearly had our c…

Elk Prairie Campground in the Elk Prairie Redwood State Park, CA. These are REAL ELK, they are not statues. They were just checking out the campground the next morning as we were leaving. This campground was filled with wildlife. We nearly had our cookware stolen by some critter with shiny yellow eyes the night before. Not knowing what was behind those eyes we were just as nervous as he was and tried to shoo it away. Whatever it was, it ran off with our bowls, which we were lucky to find the next morning in the bushes.

BIG TREE! We made it to the Redwoods National/State Park. This was just one of many big tress in the park. It was truly a majestic experience to walk amongst these silet giants.

BIG TREE! We made it to the Redwoods National/State Park. This was just one of many big tress in the park. It was truly a majestic experience to walk amongst these silet giants.

Another spectacular view from the road at Cavanaugh Gulch.

Another spectacular view from the road at Cavanaugh Gulch.

Point Arena Lighthouse, CA

Point Arena Lighthouse, CA

Passing through the Golden Gate late at night. Entering San Francisco!

Passing through the Golden Gate late at night. Entering San Francisco!

Can you find Andrzej? California Surfin....it's crowded out there!

Can you find Andrzej? California Surfin....it's crowded out there!

Going trolley riding - best way to see the city when you can't walk

Going trolley riding - best way to see the city when you can't walk

Saint Mary's Church in San Francisco. Right behind it is Chinatown.

Saint Mary's Church in San Francisco. Right behind it is Chinatown.

Grace Cathedral, San Francisco, CA

Grace Cathedral, San Francisco, CA

Chinatown San Francisco!

Chinatown San Francisco!

Inside the old trolley car

Inside the old trolley car

All aboard!

All aboard!

No more trolley! Hiking up the hill to our friend's apartment after a night out in the Mission District. Who says you can't have fun with a broken leg!

No more trolley! Hiking up the hill to our friend's apartment after a night out in the Mission District. Who says you can't have fun with a broken leg!

Nothin' like surfin' in Cali with friends at OB (Ocean Beach, San Francisco)

Nothin' like surfin' in Cali with friends at OB (Ocean Beach, San Francisco)

Took a drive up Twin Peaks. Not a bad view from up top. 

Took a drive up Twin Peaks. Not a bad view from up top. 

Another view from Twin Peaks

Another view from Twin Peaks

Our Buddy, Paul, in SF

Our Buddy, Paul, in SF

Made it to Sonoma Country where we of course had wine. This was at St. Francis Winery & Vineyards. We visited my cousin and his family in Santa Rosa. We highly recommend an extended vacation to this are where there are many many more wineries to…

Made it to Sonoma Country where we of course had wine. This was at St. Francis Winery & Vineyards. We visited my cousin and his family in Santa Rosa. We highly recommend an extended vacation to this are where there are many many more wineries to visit and the landscape is quite beautiful.

St. Francis Winery & Vineyards

St. Francis Winery & Vineyards

Steamer Lane Santa Cruz Surf spot. Long continuous rights all day, but you better be a damn good surfer and not get in the way of the locals.

Steamer Lane Santa Cruz Surf spot. Long continuous rights all day, but you better be a damn good surfer and not get in the way of the locals.

Heading down to Big Sur.

Heading down to Big Sur.

Big Sur Bridge and Tunnel

Big Sur Bridge and Tunnel

Surfing Sand Dollar Beach at Big Sur. We were lucky enough to get a camp spot across the road from friends of our friend Paul. It is one of the most isolated surf spots we found in California. 

Surfing Sand Dollar Beach at Big Sur. We were lucky enough to get a camp spot across the road from friends of our friend Paul. It is one of the most isolated surf spots we found in California. 

Leaving Big Sur. We had to turn around and head north due to the landslides that have wiped out the road just south of Big Sur. 

Leaving Big Sur. We had to turn around and head north due to the landslides that have wiped out the road just south of Big Sur. 

Good times with our peeps down in Shell beach and Avila Beach with friends

Good times with our peeps down in Shell beach and Avila Beach with friends

Happy pup! 

Happy pup! 

Music and wine, happy times...and white peacocks

Music and wine, happy times...and white peacocks

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Surfing at Huntington Beach, CA

Surfing at Huntington Beach, CA

Anj surfing "middle" Trestles, CA

Anj surfing "middle" Trestles, CA

KELLY SLATER surfing Lower Trestles, CA

KELLY SLATER surfing Lower Trestles, CA

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